The Tuxedo
Next time you’re cursing your tuxedo as a monkey suit meant for swells and toffs, consider this: that black suit worn with bowtie and satin trim may be the most egalitarian getup of modern history. Men’s formalwear was once a competition among aristocrats and courtiers for the most brightly colored and richly decorated coats, vests and knee breeches—which left common folk out of the party. The fashion for black tailcoats turned the heat down a bit, but a true practical formal uniform didn’t come until 1865. Edward VII, then Prince of Wales, commissioned a garment from Savile Row’s Henry Poole that he could wear to meals and then to the cigar den. It became a fashion in New York State’s swanky Tuxedo Park.
In the 20th century, it became an equalizer. Everyone at a formal event wore basically the same thing, but with more flexibility than the tailcoat uniform. You could choose different silhouettes—from single- to double-breasted—and varying accessories. Unlike tails, it didn’t take exacting tailoring. Assuming your weight doesn’t fluctuate wildly, you can get years of service from the same tuxedo.
Originally, the term black-tie differentiated tails from tuxedos. You wore white with the former (lest you be mistaken for a butler in a cut-away coat) and black with the latter. Today, we see the words “creative black tie” on invitations, which paradoxically allows for bows of many colors. If you match the color and pattern of cummerbund and/or pocket square it makes it seem like a plan, but it isn’t necessary. The bowtie itself isn’t even de rigueur anymore. You can go with a four-in-hand tie if you stick to blacks, grays, whites and understated patterns. It’s expected that your suit be black, but you can ditch the satin trim and even consider midnight blue.
The key is to judge the room and match the formality of the affair. A solemn state dinner suggests forgetting Ralph Lauren’s jean-with-a dinner-jacket look, although if you bring enough panache you might be forgiven. Just don’t wear brown shoes.
