The Classic Club Sandwich
Have you ever bothered to make a full-on club sandwich at home? We’re talking all the right layers of sliced turkey, crisp bacon, juicy tomato, crunchy iceberg lettuce, mayonnaise and toasted white bread assembled like a deck of cards and divided into four equal triangles. It’s a lot of work and delayed gratification. That’s why being presented one at the clubhouse, diner or ritzy bistro is such a joy.
The legend is that this sandwich, which essentially amounts to a triple-decker B.L.T. with turkey or chicken, was invented at New York City’s Union Club. But what was in 1889 two toasted slices of wheat bread, turkey or chicken with ham has morphed into something more luxurious. Most versions have swapped in crispy bacon for the ham, contain lettuce and tomato and a third slice of bread, which comes as either white or sourdough.
Chayce Yokoyama, of the Hollywood celebrity favorite Sunset Hotel Tower Bar and Restaurant—a place that feels like a club but doesn’t require membership—says the club is popular because it’s easy—easy to order, at least. For Hollywood types looking for something more substantial than a salad lunch, but not something as heavy as a cheeseburger, there’s just not a lot to think about, he says. The club sandwich is lighter but still substantial, elegant but familiar. It’s eaten in four stages, the moisture of the mayonnaise softening the toast. The Sunset Tower elevates its club with whole white chicken breast—instead of sliced deli turkey—and Dijon mustard for extra punch.
Sunset Tower does nail the spirit of the club sandwich despite these liberties. Branded toothpicks hold the slices in small squares faced outward, the pieces arranged upright, creating a castle to protect a fluted silver tin of golden-brown French fries. While you should always insist on the classic triple-decker format, little changes make it seem almost regal.
