The Black Manhattan
The drink arrives, looking very much like the familiar Manhattan, in a conically shaped glass or even a coupe, adorned with a cherry. But its somber color gives it away. This is not the glowing russet of the cocktail with which it shares a name. Despite its subdued hue, the drink presents on the palate with bold notes of dark chocolate, anise, earthy herbs, even cola—and a stronger alcohol bite. This is the Black Manhattan, the Manhattan’s spunky kid brother, a delectable substitute made with amaro in place of the usual sweet vermouth.
The surprise shouldn’t be that the Black Manhattan is delicious, but that its invention took so long. This riff on the original aromatic cocktail, (circa 1870s), wasn’t identified until 2005 when the bartender Todd Smith of San Francisco’s Bourbon & Branch switched out the standard recipe’s aperitif in favor of Averna liqueur.
But let’s be real. Surely someone in the century and a half after the Manhattan’s invention thought to match the whiskey with something other than wine-based vermouth. Maybe it was to experiment with different flavors. (Bartenders are curious by nature, as Noah Rothbaum points out in his section on the Manhattan in his Whiskey Bible.) Perhaps it was to increase the proof. (More kick seems to be the strategy behind making really dry Martinis.) Or just because of a shortage of vermouth.
Avenues of jiggering with Manhattans have included whiskey choice. Some make it with Bourbon (or even Scotch) in place of the original rye. Others play with the vermouth ratio. The Perfect Manhattan blends both sweet and dry.
Smith hit on his variation at the right time. The cocktail renaissance was in full swing. Not only that, amaros (bitter Italian liqueurs like Averna) were being discovered by the American saloon vanguard at the time. While Averna is a top choice, literally hundreds of options exist in Italy, where they drink them neat. Amaro can inform a drink with notes that range from caramel to mint to gentian to fruit and flowers, even artichokes and truffles. We suggest starting with the original recipe and having fun working your way through the amaro shelf.
2 ounces rye or Bourbon whiskey
1 ounce Averna amaro
1 dash Angostura bitters
1 dash orange bitters
Maraschino cherry or lemon twist garnish
Combine whiskey, amaro and bitters over ice in a mixing glass. Stir until well chilled. Strain into a cocktail glass and garnish.
