The Ascot
Depending on the era—and how you look at it—the ascot can be either the snootiest, most uptight piece of menswear around or the coolest, most insouciant way to dress up your neck. Fortunately, we are currently living in the latter period. When you see that guys like Daniel Craig and George Clooney are sporting the loose-fitting neckwear, it’s safe for you.
The forebearer of the ascot is the formal cravat. It was in vogue with the English gentry of the 19th century and is just about as fussy as you can get. Like the ascot, it is far broader than a necktie, but comes in white and is worn outside the buttoned collar of a formal shirt—usually secured with a tie pin. It’s the kind of thing swells wear with a top hat at the Ascot Heath races.
By the 20th century, cravats were supplanted by thin, four-in-hand neckties, only to reappear in a wholly different guise: an even less formal garment worn with an open-neck shirt. In America, for some reason, the racetrack gave its name to the colorful ties. (Elsewhere in the English-speaking world, it’s called a day cravat.) In the 1930s, such stylish actors as Cary Grant, Clark Gable, Jimmy Stewart and Fred Astaire wore ascots to brighten otherwise dressed-down outfits—even with short-sleeve shirts.
But the fashion cycle wasn’t kind. By the 1960s, the ascot became kind of finky—part of the uniform of pretentious fat cats like Thurston Howell III and aging playboys. Now, we’re distanced enough from that to enjoy the ascot’s real value: an easy way to add color to an otherwise plain outfit, without the confinement of a necktie.
Tying an ascot can be as simple as making a half cross knot, flipping one end over it. The advantage to more complicated knots is that the tie will be more stable and cover more of your neck. (And, let’s face it, guys, as we age it’s nice to have something hiding the inevitable wrinkles.) Along with a broad selection, Sterling Ascots offers a tying tutorial on its website. Another great ascot source is Budd of London, only they might be confused if you ask for an ascot and not a cravat.
