Japanese Whisky
It used to be easy to think of Japanese whisky as a pale imitation of Scotch. After all, whisky making began in earnest in Japan a century ago when Masataka Taketsuru apprenticed as a distiller in Scotland. He returned with his Scots wife to open a distillery for Suntory and later one for Nikka. He copied Scotch still designs and found locations that mirrored those in Scotland.
Stifle that dismissive impulse. Japan is not only turning out exquisite examples, but also spirits that defy what the Scots would describe as whisky. Because Japan has a fraction of the whisky plants in Scotland and its makers are not given to trading amongst themselves, each distillery is obliged to create several different spirit profiles. Furthermore, they have dealt with cask shortages by employing a native oak called mizunara, as well as vessels used to make plum liqueur. Japanese whiskies also needn’t be 100 percent made in Japan. There’s even whisky made with rice.
While Japan is finally gaining recognition, its industry is only now ramping up production to meet the new demand. Nevertheless, there’s a large range to choose from. In single malts, consider Miyagikyo Peated (96 proof, $275), with its complex mix of savory, spicy, herbal and citrus notes. The country is also a great champion of blended whisky, with its taste for highball drinks (whisky and soda on ice) and cultural esteem for the concept of balance. Hibiki Harmony (86 proof, $80), with its 24-sided bottle that represents the number of seasons local farmers recognize, delivers an intricate drink, which includes lemon, orange and cherry candy alongside ginger, cinnamon and tarragon. Japan also produces a smattering of grain whiskies (those spirits made from cereal other than barley, using a column, not pot still). Nikka Coffey Grain (90 proof, $65), named not for the caffeine drink, but for the traditional column still it is made with, has an especially savory body, with notes of caramel, toffee, leather and chocolate.
For a deeper look at Japanese whisky, see the Fall 2024 issue of Whisky Advocate, Cigar Aficionado’s sister publication.
