The azure facade and white-trimmed arcade make the four-story H. Upmann cigar factory on Calle Padre Varela stand out in an otherwise drab part of Havana. It’s the facility that produces its namesake brand, along with Montecristo, Vegas Robaina and Cohiba. The factory has even rolled some Trinidad this year on account of the brand’s 55th anniversary.
Once the Romeo y Julieta factory, this location was only supposed to be a temporary home for H. Upmann while the previous Upmann location on 23rd Street underwent renovations. That was more than a decade ago and so far, it doesn’t look like Upmann is going back any time soon.
On the day we visited, the packaging department was closed and the rolling gallery was only partially full. Many rollers were making the H. Upmann No. 2, a torpedo-shaped smoke that was named our Cigar of the Year for 2022. Management tells Cigar Aficionado that it expects this factory to roll a total of two million cigars by the end of 2024.
Few experiences enhance the appreciation of a handmade cigar like a factory tour. We give you some snapshots of an otherwise insular world.
The bright blue building. With its high arches and decorative ironwork, the H. Upmann cigar factory stands out on this otherwise unremarkable stretch of Calle Padre Varela.
A grand entrance. The marble staircase and mosaic floor of this palatial lobby set a regal tone imbued with history and tradition.
In the deveining room. The central vein of each tobacco leaf is removed by hand in a few swift motions.
Strolling the rolling gallery. It’s the heart and soul of the factory where brands including H. Upmann, Montecristo and even Cohiba are made.
Solitary work. This Cuban roller works alone, first creating a bunch before placing it in a tobacco mold to take shape. Afterward, she’ll apply the wrapper and cap.
Inspecting the inspector. A factory manager looks on while this quality control inspector puts unwrapped cigars through a draw test machine to ensure proper airflow.
Entubado style. Notice how this roller is placing scroll-like rolls of tobacco within two binder leaves. This entubado method is the Cuban way of rolling cigars.
Shaggy feet. These cigars are almost finished, as they are rolled and capped, but each foot has yet to be cut for a clean and complete appearance.
A roller in training. Off in a quiet corner of the factory, this young roller is still learning the craft of assembling a fine cigar. If all goes according to plan, he will one day be a master.
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