Belon Oysters
In the culinary world, a few names exemplify their categories: Kobe beef; Jamon Iberico; Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese; Beluga caviar. In sea beds, Belon oysters reign supreme, with a distinctive flat shape and unmistakable sweet, somewhat nutty, almost metallic flavor. That the native French oysters are available in the United States at all comes about because of an experiment that first went wrong, then turned out delectably right. If you see them on a menu, be sure to take advantage of it.
The original, true Belon variety, which is called ostrea edulis, comes from the Belon River in France. In the 1950s, U.S. scientists tried to transplant them to the waters off Maine. Seeing no results, they abandoned the project. But 10 years later, they were found growing wild off the coast. Unlike with farmed oysters, divers must hunt and pick the oysters by hand.
Whether you sup on the French or the American variety, expect distinctive flavor. Chef Dom Crisp, an oyster expert at Dom’s Taverna in Santa Barbara, California, explains that “different oysters have flavor profiles like wine because of their meroir [like terroir but for the ocean]. “Belons taste like you’re sucking on a penny, and you’ll love them if you appreciate oysters.” Crisp laughs when he sees them labeled, “gunkhole,” likely a joke from the Maine oystermen attempting to keep their spots secret.
Belon oysters are fantastic cold on the half shell, slurped with a squeeze of lemon or mignonette, but they might be even better thrown on the grill. Chef Brian Dunsmoor, of Dunsmoor restaurant in Los Angeles, warms them over a wood fire with bottarga butter, bread crumbs and chives as part of a proper Southern feast.
As well as in fine seafood restaurants, Belons are available from specialty distributors and shoreline purveyors. With their round, dark green shells resembling small dinner plates, they have a distinct appearance. Because of their weak adductor muscles, they are often packed with rubber bands holding them together. This retains the rich liquor that makes Belons the creme de la creme of oysterdom. Thank goodness the French didn’t hoard the tasty creatures for themselves.
