Armagnac Vs. Cognac
If you know Cognac, you’re among the many who know the global brandy phenomenon that has carved out a niche with cigar smokers. Those who know Armagnac are in much shorter supply, even while France’s other brandy has a longer heritage and rivals Cognac in connoisseurship. The uninitiated are forever asking, “Which is better?”
The best possible answer is “silly question.” The two premier grape brandies of France are to be celebrated, not judged, for their differences. The similarities are simple. Both are the product of fermented and distilled grapes. Both come from France and are each products of designated regions that give the names to each.
However, much of Cognac is on the coast. Armagnac is inland and further south. Soil characteristics account for much of the difference in terroir (Cognac tends to be chalky, while Armagnac is sandier). Cognac’s soil is best suited for growing Ugni Blanc grapes. Armagnac uses that varietal in combination with Colombard, Folle Blanche and Baco Blanc, providing a wider choice of flavors. Their geographies also determined their fates at market. Even while Armagnac is three centuries older, Cognac got the upper hand in sales because it shipped from its own seaport.
Distillation is also different. Cognac is twice distilled in pot stills. Armagnac is run once through a unique alembic akin to a column still. The theory is that single distillation allows more of the wine’s flavor to come through, part of the charm of the many vintage bottlings from Armagnac. The exquisite 1975 Château de La Béroje, for instance, speaks of that growing year, while virtuoso Cognacs like Paradis and Louis XIII cleave to a house style.
Cognac is for good reason often mentioned in the same breath as cigars. Its subtle sweetness and nuanced fruits can bring out the best in a smoke. But Armagnac offers an alternative for a cigar, something typically earthier and a bit more rugged to match more full-bodied smokes. Ultimately, it’s best to forget the notion of a brandy competition and just say, “Vive la différence!”
