Le Fumoir, Val d’Isère, France
The upscale and outdoorsy alpine town of Val d’Isère anchors the second largest ski resort on the planet, the massively combined Val d’Isère/Tignes, which hosted several events—including the marquee Downhill—in the 1992 Albertville Olympics. Easily reached from Geneva or Lyon, it is one of the most important ski resorts in the world, but the French town is home to just one place where you can buy and smoke cigars inside: Le Fumoir, located within the luxury Airelles hotel.
The Airelles is the top ski-in/ski-out lodging here, and sits in the heart of the main village, steps from the slopes and just outside the two most important lifts, the Olympique and Solaise gondolas. It resembles a giant alpine chateau of stone and timber, and while it has a mere 41 rooms and suites, plus five luxury apartments, it is a renowned gastronomic destination with four main restaurants, one focused on local Savoyard cuisine, one classic French, one European/International and an outpost of Chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s namesake Matsuhisa, serving sushi and Japanese cuisine with Peruvian flair. Many guest rooms have large outdoor furnished balconies where smoking is allowed. The hotel also has a full-service spa by French beauty specialist Guerlain.
You do not have to be staying here to enjoy Le Fumoir, which is called a “smoking room,” rather than a bar or lounge. It is just that, a living room for cigar lovers, a private space off the main lobby, filled with classic table games such as chess and backgammon. There are sectional couches and cushioned wingback chairs, with bookshelves, original art and old photos on the wood-paneled walls, all making for a guest-in-a castle feel. Both the humidor and well stocked bar are hidden out of site and are served from menus offered by efficient uniformed staff. It is more of a designated space for relaxed smoking, games and après ski cocktails than a traditional venue, and you can even bring your own. There is no retail cigar specialist in this resort town, but the nearby Le Chiquito drugstore has a small tobacco selection with some cigars. Up on the slopes, atop the La Daille gondola, iconic lunch, Champagne and après ski spot La Folie Douce also has a retail humidor in its cheese cave, which you can stop by while skiing.
The cigar list is short, sweet and pricey, with Cubans and non-Cubans. The entry level is a Zino Robusto at 60 euros (about $69), a Cuban Quintero can be had for 180 euros ($206), Davidoffs go as high as 230 euros ($264) and the top-shelf smoke is a Cohiba Robusto, which will set you back 600 euros (nearly $700). The drinks list is equally upscale, with a selection of high-end Cognacs, whiskies (including the Dalmore Cigar malt), Tequila and rum, including the hard-to-find Havana Club Maximo from Cuba. There is also an extensive house signature cocktail list, an impressive selection of wines, Champagne, and Port by the glass, as well as vermouth and classic French aperitifs such as pastis. Finally, there is a long menu of specialty gin and tonics with spirits from Italy, France, the United Kingdom, Japan and other producers.
Le Fumoir is essentially an on-demand venue, with service offered whenever anyone enters and takes a seat. While it is open all day, it sits empty much of the time, and gets busy for après ski and pre and post dinner enjoyment.
Le Fumoir
Airelles Val d’Isère Hotel
145 Rue de la Poste
Val d’Isère, France, 73150
+33 (0) 4 7922 2222
https://airelles.com/en/destination/val-d-isere-hotel
Monday to Saturday: 9 a.m. to 1 a.m.
Sunday: 12 p.m. to 10 p.m.
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